Arriving and Departing

By Air

The major gateway to Chicago is O'Hare International Airport (tel. 773/686-2200). One of the world's busiest airports, it is 20 mi from downtown, in the far northwest corner of the city. Midway Airport (tel. 773/767-0500), on Chicago's Southwest Side, about 7 mi from downtown, is smaller and relatively uncrowded. Meigs Field (tel. 312/922-5454), just south of downtown, serves commuter airlines with flights to downstate Illinois.

Flying time is about two hours from New York and about four hours from Los Angeles.

Carriers

Air Canada (tel. 800/776-3000). America TransAir (tel. 800/225-2995). America West (tel. 800/235-9292). American (tel. 800/433-7300). Continental (tel. 800/525-0280). Delta (tel. 800/221-1212). Northwest (tel. 800/225-2525). Southwest Airlines (tel. 800/435-9792).

TWA (tel. 800/221-2000). United (tel. 800/241-6522). US Airways (tel. 800/428-4322).

Between the Airport and Town

By Bus

When taking an airport shuttle bus to O'Hare to catch a departing flight, be sure to allow at least 1 1/2 hours. If you're going from the South Side to Midway, call 24 hours in advance.

Airport Express (tel. 312/454-7800 or 800/654-7871) coaches provide service from both airports to major downtown and Near North hotels; call for reservations. The trip downtown from O'Hare takes an hour or longer, depending on traffic conditions and your destination; the fare is $15.50. The trip downtown from Midway takes about half an hour; the fare is $11.

CW Limo (tel. 773/493-2700) offers moderately priced express van service. Vans travel from O'Hare International Airport to Midway Airport, with departures every hour and a fare of $14. Travel time to Midway is roughly an hour. CW also departs from both airports to locations in Hyde Park and the South Side. The fare is $14 from O'Hare to Hyde Park and $11 from Midway to Hyde Park.

By Car

Leaving the airport, follow the signs to I-90 east (Kennedy Expressway), which merges with I-94 (Edens Expressway). Take the eastbound exit at Ohio Street for Near North locations, the Washington or Monroe Street exit for downtown. After you exit, continue east about a mile to get to Michigan Avenue.

By Public Transit

For cheap and convenient transportation to the North Side or downtown, take rapid transit to or from the airports. Follow the "Trains to City" signs.

In O'Hare Airport the Chicago Transit Authority (tel. 312/836-7000) Blue Line station is in the underground concourse between terminals. Travel time to the city is about 45 minutes. Get off at the station closest to your hotel, or from the first stop in the Loop (Washington and Dearborn streets) you can take a taxi to your hotel or change to other transit lines.

At Midway Airport the Orange Line El runs to the Loop. The stop at Adams Street and Wabash Avenue is the closest to the hotels on South Michigan Avenue; for others, the simplest strategy is to alight anywhere in the Loop and hail a cab to your final destination.

The fare is $1.50, which you will need in either dollar bills (turnstiles don't give change) and/or coins. A farecard is another option. Pick up brochures outside the entrances to the platforms that detail the stops of the train lines; the "Downtown Transit Sightseeing Guide" is also helpful.

By Taxi

Metered taxicab service is available at both O'Hare and Midway airports. Trips to and from O'Hare incur a $1 surcharge. Expect to pay about $25-$30 plus tip from O'Hare to Near North and downtown locations, about $17-$22 plus tip from Midway. Some cabs participate in a share-a-ride program in which each cab carries two or three individuals going from the airport to downtown; the $15 cost per person is substantially lower than the full rate.

 

By Bus
Greyhound (630 W. Harrison St., tel. 312/408-5970 or 800/231-2222) has nationwide service to its main terminal in the Loop and to neighborhood stations, at the 95th Street and Dan Ryan Expressway CTA station and at the Cumberland CTA station, near O'Hare Airport. The Harrison Street terminal is far from most hotels, so plan on another bus or a cab to your hotel.

 

By Car
Travelers coming from the east can take the Indiana Toll Road (I-80/90) westbound for about 30 mi to the Chicago Skyway (also a toll road), which runs into the Dan Ryan Expressway (I-90/94). Take the Dan Ryan north (westbound) just past the turnoff for I-290 to any of the eastbound downtown exits (Jackson, Monroe, Washington, Lake) and drive east about a mile to reach Michigan Avenue. If you are heading to the Near North, take the Ohio Street exit eastbound and continue straight for about a mile to reach Michigan Avenue. Travelers coming from the south should take I-57 northbound to the Dan Ryan Expressway.

From the west follow I-80 eastbound across Illinois to I-55, the major artery from the southwest. Continue east on I-55 to Lake Shore Drive. Those coming from areas due west of Chicago may prefer to pick up I-290 eastbound, which forks as it nears the city, heading to O'Hare in one direction (where it meets I-90) and to downtown Chicago in the other (where it ends).

From the north take I-90 eastbound, which merges with I-94 south (eastbound) to form the Kennedy Expressway (I-90/94) about 10 mi north of downtown. (I-90/94 is called the Kennedy Expressway north of I-290 and the Dan Ryan Expressway south of I-290.)

 

By Train
Amtrak (tel. 800/872-7245) offers nationwide service to Chicago's Union Station, at 225 South Canal Street. Some trains travel overnight, and you can sleep in your seat or book a roomette at additional cost. Most trains have attractive diner cars with acceptable food, but you may prefer to bring your own.

 

Getting Around
Overview
When traveling in the city, keep in mind that Chicago's streets follow a grid pattern. Madison Street is the baseline for streets and avenues that run north-south; Michigan Avenue, for example, is called North Michigan Avenue above Madison Street and South Michigan Avenue below it. Street-address numbers start at the baseline and climb in each direction, generally by 100 a block, with eight blocks to a mile; thus the Fine Arts Building at 410 South Michigan Avenue is four blocks (1/2 mi) south of Madison Street. For streets that run east-west, State Street is the baseline; 18th Street, for example, is East 18th Street east of State Street and West 18th Street west of State Street. Street-address numbers start at the baseline and rise in each direction, east and west.

"The Loop" denotes the section of downtown that is roughly circled by the famous El train's elevated tracks, although the Loop's actual boundaries-Michigan Avenue on the east, Wacker Drive on the north and west, and Congress on the south-enclose a larger area than the tracks. The area immediately north of the Loop, from Wacker Drive to North Avenue, is known as the Near North; included are the Magnificent Mile and such neighborhoods as Streeterville, River North, and the Gold Coast. Lincoln Park is the neighborhood stretching north from North Avenue to Diversey Parkway. The northern neighborhoods are bounded on the west by the north branch of the Chicago River. South of the Loop the city is less clearly defined. The South Side neighborhoods you'll hear about most often are Hyde Park and Kenwood, which comprise the area south from 41st Street to 63rd Street, bounded on the west by Martin Luther King Jr. Drive.

By Car
Chicago's network of buses and rapid transit rail is extensive, and taxis and limousines are readily available (the latter often priced competitively with metered cabs), so rent a car only to visit the outlying suburbs that are not accessible by public transportation. Chicago traffic is often heavy, on-street parking is nearly impossible to find, parking lots are expensive, congestion creates frustrating delays, and other drivers may be impatient with those who are unfamiliar with the city and its roads. Expect snarled traffic during rush hours. In these circumstances you may find a car to be a liability rather than an asset. The Illinois Department of Transportation gives information on expressway congestion travel times, and lane closures and directions on state roadways.

Car Rentals

Rates in Chicago begin at $46 a day and $170 a week for an economy car with air-conditioning, an automatic transmission, and unlimited mileage. This does not include tax on car rentals, which is 18%.

At Home

Alamo (tel. 800/327-9633; 0800/272-2000 in the United Kingdom). Avis (tel. 800/331-1212; 800/879-2847 in Canada; 008/225-533 in Australia). Budget (tel. 800/527-0700; 0800/181181 in the United Kingdom). Dollar (tel. 800/800-4000; 0990/565656 in the United Kingdom, where it is known as Eurodollar). Hertz (tel. 800/654-3131; 800/263-0600 in Canada; 0345/555888 in the United Kingdom; 03/9222-2523 in Australia; 03/358-6777 in New Zealand). National InterRent (tel. 800/227-7368; 0345/222525 in the United Kingdom, where it is known as Europcar InterRent).

Also try rental wholesalers Auto Europe (tel. 207/842-2000 or 800/223-5555, fax 800-235-6321) or Kemwel Holiday Autos (tel. 914/835-5555 or 800/678-0678, fax 914/835-5126).

Requirements

In Illinois you must be 21 to rent a car, and rates may be higher if you're under 25. You'll pay extra for child seats (about $3 per day), which are compulsory for children under five, and for additional drivers (about $2 per day). Non-U.S. residents will need a reservation voucher, a passport, a driver's license, and a travel policy that covers each driver, in order to pick up a car.

Gasoline

Gasoline is relatively inexpensive in the United States, though of course the price varies from region to region and fluctuates over time.

Most gas stations are open late, and many are open 24 hours. However, many stations close early on Sunday night.

Rules of the Road

Driving in the United States is done on the right side of the road. Speed limits vary and are sign-posted along roads and highways. Adhere to speed limits. Recent federal legislation allows each state to set individual speed limits. Watch for lower speed limits on back roads. Except for limited-access roads, highways usually post a lower speed limit in towns, so slow down when houses and buildings start to appear. Front-seat passengers must wear seat belts, and children under age 4 must ride in approved child-safety seats.

Beware of weekday rush-hour traffic-anywhere from 7 to 10 AM and 4 to 7 PM-around major cities. To encourage car sharing, some crowded expressways may reserve an express lane for cars carrying more than one passenger. In downtown areas, watch signs carefully-there are lots of one-way streets, "no-left-turn" intersections, and blocks closed to car traffic, all in the name of easing congestion.

 

By Public Transportation
CTA Buses & Trains

Chicago's extensive public transportation network, run by the Chicago Transit Authority (Merchandise Mart, 350 N. Wells St., 60654, tel. 312/836-7000 or 888/968-7282 for advance sales of visitor passes), includes buses and rapid transit trains, both subway and elevated (the latter known as the El).

Each of the seven CTA lines has a color name as well as a route name: Blue (O'Hare-Congress-Douglas), Brown (Ravenswood), Green (Lake-Englewood-Jackson Park), Orange (Midway), Purple (Evanston), Red (Howard-Dan Ryan), Yellow (Skokie Swift). In general, the route names indicate the first and last stop on the train. Chicagoans refer to trains both by the color and the route name. Most, but not all, rapid transit lines operate 24 hours; some stations are closed at night. Pick up the brochure "Downtown Transit Sightseeing Guide" for hours, fares, and other pertinent information. In general, late-night CTA travel is not recommended. Of note is that the red and blue lines are subways; the rest are elevated. This means if you're heading to O'Hare and looking for the Blue Line, look for a stairway down, not up.

Exact fares must be paid in cash (dollar bills or coins; no change given by turnstiles on train platforms or fareboxes on buses) or by transit card. Transit cards are plastic and credit-card size and can be purchased from machines at CTA train stations as well as at Jewel and Dominicks grocery stores and currency exchanges. These easy-to-use cards are inserted into the turnstiles at CTA train stations and into machines as you board CTA buses; directions are clearly posted. Use them to transfer between CTA vehicles. To transfer between the Loop's elevated lines and the subway or between rapid transit trains and buses, you must either use a transit card with at least 30 cents stored on it, or, if you're not using a transit card, buy a transfer when you board the first conveyance. If two CTA train lines meet, you can transfer for free. You can also obtain free train-to-train transfers from specially marked turnstiles at the Washington/State subway station or the State/Lake El station, or ask for a transfer card, good on downtown trains, at the ticket booth.

Buses generally stop on every other corner northbound and southbound (on State Street they stop at every corner). Eastbound and westbound buses generally stop on every corner. Buses from the Loop generally run north-south. Principal transfer points are on Michigan Avenue at the north side of Randolph Street for northbound buses, Adams Street and Wabash Avenue for westbound buses and the El, and State and Lake streets for those southbound.

Pace runs suburban buses in a six-county region; these connect with the CTA and use CTA transit cards, transfers, and passes.

The CTA fare structure is as follows: the basic fare for rapid transit trains and buses is $1.50, and transfers are 30 cents. A transit card with $15 worth of rides can be purchased for $13.50. If you pay cash and do not use a transit card, you must buy a transfer when you first board the bus or train. Transfers can be used twice within a two-hour time period. Transfers between CTA train lines are free-no transfer card is needed. Transit cards may be shared.

Visitor passes are another option. For $5 a one-day pass offers 24 hours of unlimited CTA riding from the time you first use it. Passes are sold at hotels, museums, and other places visitors frequent. A two-day pass is $9, a three-day pass is $12, and a five-day pass is $18.

The CTA publishes an excellent map of the transit system, available at subway or El fare booths or on request from the CTA. The RTA Travel Information Center (tel. 312/836-7000) provides information on how to get around on city and suburban (including Metra and Pace) transit and bus lines. Call for maps and timetables.

Commuter Trains

Commuter trains serve the city and surrounding suburbs. The Metra Electric railroad (often referred to by its old name, the IC railroad), which has a line close to Lake Michigan, has a fare structure based on the distance you ride. Metra Electric trains stop in Hyde Park.

The Metra commuter rail system has 11 lines to suburbs and surrounding cities including Aurora, Elgin, Joliet, and Waukegan; one line serves the North Shore suburbs, and another has a stop at McCormick Place. Trains leave from a number of downtown terminals, and fares vary with the distance traveled. A Metra weekend pass costs $5 and is valid for rides on any of the eight operating lines all day on weekends, except for the South Shore line.

For more information, contact the Metra information line (tel. 312/322-6777).

Mccormick PLACE

Convention goers can take advantage of several alternatives to cabs or shuttle buses. CTA trains do not serve McCormick Place, but CTA Bus 3 (King Drive), Bus 4 (Cottage Grove), and Bus 21 (Cermak) stop at 23rd Street and Martin Luther King Drive and travel north to downtown Chicago. Another option is the Metra commuter train, which has a 23rd Street stop, accessible from the North Building, on the Metra Electric and South Shore lines. Visitors going downtown can get off at one of two stations: Van Buren Street or the northernmost and final stop, Randolph Street. On weekdays Metra trains run fairly often, but weekend service is less frequent.

 

By Taxi
Chicago taxis are metered, with fares beginning at $1.60 upon entering the cab and $1.40 for each additional mile. A charge of 50 cents is made for each additional passenger between the ages of 12 and 65. There is no extra baggage charge. Taxi drivers expect a 15% tip.

Contact the following cab companies: American United Cab Co. (tel. 773/248-7600), Checker Taxi (tel. 312/243-2537), Flash Cab (tel. 773/561-1444), or Yellow Cab Co. (tel. 312/829-4222).

 

On Foot
Chicago's Pedway, a system of skywalks and underground walkways, links more than 40 blocks in the central business district, connecting hotels, shops, office buildings, and apartments. Though it probably won't get you to everything you wish to visit, you may want to use it for a respite from crowded streets and unpleasant weather. Many entrances to the Pedway are marked, and maps are posted. You may also be able to get a map when you're in the Pedway.